Guangzhou, although not as widely international as Shanghai, has long-term communities from all over the world, including Germany. The German connection in this busy port city is not always obvious, but a small community resides here, now mostly because of the German consulate and a multitude of German companies. In fact German expatriates have been in China for nearly two centuries. They are most noted for their trading colony at Jiaozhou Bay, their missionary work in the nineteenth century, and the founding of the now famous Tsingdao Brewery in 1903. And German expatriate John Rabe was one of several people credited with courageously saving lives during the Nanjing massacre. Today, Germany and China are each other's largest trading partners on their respective continents.

One particular legacy of the Germans in Guangzhou, is the 1920 Restaurant and Bar, one of three German eateries in town. It attracts many of Guangzhou's resident Germans, as well as other Westerners and a fair number of Chinese diners. The simple two-story building was actually built by Germans in 1920, and was formerly used as an electric factory. The restaurant itself was founded more recently, in 2001, by local Cantonese woman Page Chen, and is managed by Filipinos. But their German food and drink, as well as much of the rest of their menu, are certainly up to scratch.

1920's central location on the Pearl River is lovely at night, the river and its bridges colorfully lit up along the whole strip, with tour boats passing by at regular intervals. The décor of the restaurant falls somewhere between tasteful and tacky, with traditional German toys and beer mugs hung next to old black and white photographs. Several chandeliers hang overhead, and the dining area's narrow black seats almost give it the air of a diner. The beer garden out front, is a particularly nice touch, offering a peaceful place to eat and drink, partly walled off from the surrounding streets by some greenery.

German cuisine is famously hearty. It is stick-to-the-ribs kind of food and is well-known for being heavy on the meats. Memorable also is the consistent love of sweet and sour ingredients, as well as the potent horseradish and yellow mustard. Yet despite its public persona, the cuisine is actually remarkably varied, with distinct northern, central and southern styles of cooking and countless local specialties. Potatoes are almost as widely-used as they are in Irish food. German “pasta”, such as spaetzle, is common. Fresh salads and asparagus can keep it light.

1920 Restaurant and Bar admirably captures much, but not all of this variety, with a selection which focuses on the southern cooking style, with only a little from north and central Germany. Chinese chef Hunter, who has spent several months practicing in Frankfurt and other German cities, serves up classic German dishes such as sauerbraten, sauerkraut, Nuremberger and Viennese sausages, schnitzel, red cabbage and potato salad. You can also find some lesser known favorites like German noodles, duck and goose, along with a handful of Italian-influenced dishes. The otherwise abundant selection, however, is very light on fish and German bread, perhaps because of its southern focus. Strangely missing is the usually ever-present black forest cake. 

I would not try to eat here or drink at the upstairs lounge on a budget. With snacks ranging from 20 to 78 RMB, and steak topping out at 168, you should come prepared to make an investment to please your palate. If you care to stay late, 1920 features jazz singing every evening, and also has a beer, cocktail and liquor menu nearly the size of the food menu. Traditional favorites like Paulaner and Pilsener are offered on draft. For the most devoted, 1920 also organizes wine tasting parties at Friends Daily, a wine and tapas bar on Taojin Lu across from Garden Hotel.

It is not hard to see why 1920 Bar and Grill is well-loved for both its food and its atmosphere. You can eat well in an antique building, leave graciously full and stroll down the riverside afterward. Although there is little other German culture left in this old trading city, sometimes the German companies will organize a festival. Last year, German cultural events such as music and puppetry accompanied a technology fair in front of Tianhe Sports Center, and in 2006, during the FIFA World Cup, eleven German companies rented out a bar for a month to gather and watch.

So if you care to search a little, you can certainly find more German experiences in Guangzhou. You might think to ask someone you meet at 1920 Restaurant and Bar.

Restaurant and BarView In Map

Address: 183 Yanjiang Xilu, Guangzhou (Metro Haizhu Square Station Exit D)
广州市沿江西路183号(地铁海珠广场站D出口）
Tel: 020 8333 6156
Hours: Daily 11:00 – 1:30
Directions: Take metro line 2 to Haizhu Square, take exit D, walk to the river and it will be on the corner to your right.

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