In the years between 1995-2000, sales from Western-style supermarkets jumped more than six-fold in China. A growing population of expats, foreign businesses, and a more comfortable Chinese middle class means a demand for more westernised products. Names such as Carrefour, Park 'n' Shop and Jusco have made their names in big cities throughout the country. It's certainly not hard to get caught up in the supermarket fervour, as the immediate gratification for avocados and cereal in a cart can be extremely satisfying. The regulated cleanliness and well-stocked aisles are also a welcome haven within China's more chaotic norms.

On the other hand, shopping at the local “wet” markets can be extremely rewarding. Not only is it a great financial benefit, but it helps keep plenty of fresh fruits and vegetables in your diet, and can make you more aware of the economy and resources around you. But the wet market can be a scary place for expats. Strange smells, foreign products and different methods of doing daily business can make a quick trip for groceries a cumbersome and tiring chore. However with a few tips in mind, and a few trips under your belt, you'll be navigating the sights and sounds of the wet market like a local.

Comb through the streets of your city and find the wet markets around your area. There is one in every neighbourhood, no matter how old or newly developed. Not all wet markets are created equal, and similar to a preferred supermarket in your city, you'll soon find a favourite wet market to supplement your supermarket purchases.

1)  The early bird doesn't always catch the worm
Each market opens on its own schedule, but many Chinese wet markets are slow to start at daybreak. Vendors continue to set up well into the late morning, with some deliveries still visible behind the counter if a visit is made too early. Rumours have it that the early morning piles are the stuff left over from the day before, so it's better to wait until later in the morning to visit the market. The market is the busiest around 17-18:00, when the masses get off work and dinner needs to be prepared. Unlike late-night shopping runs to 24-hour supermarkets in cities in the West, don't expect the markets to stay open much later than sunset.

2) Shopping for an army?
Looking at a Chinese person's fridge, it'd be shocking to find more than a two-day fresh fruit or vegetable supply. Many make daily visits to the market to source the ingredients for an evening's dinner, walking away with a couple of small plastic bags' worth of ingredients. Being an expat, we may be used to stocking up on fruits and vegetables that will last through a few meals and save an extra trip to the market. If you're stuffing your tote bags full of greens, be prepared to garner a few stares and comments such as “wow, so many vegetables!”. Also bear in mind that many of the fruits and vegetables are not transported or stored with the same mentality that goes into the produce at a large supermarket – meaning that tomato you bought will probably last only a few days, max.

3) No place for formalities
If you stop to examine some vegetables, the vendor may or may not pause for a moment to acknowledge your presence. They will then most likely toss a plastic or metal bowl beside your pile of greens. Your job is now to place the vegetables that you want onto the tray to be weighed. Once weighed and bagged by the vendor, the money can either be handed over directly or tossed on the pile of vegetables in front of you. Any change will be returned in the same manner.

4) Make regular visits, to the same vendors
This shouldn't be a surprise, but it might be hard to believe on your first visit to the market that the stout, grumpy, plastic apron-donned woman behind the massive pile of lettuce is capable of smiling. Rest assured, she can be as friendly as the guy at your neighbourhood coffee shop back home. As a result of frequent visits, rewards of new vegetables may be offered to you as seasons change, free cilantro or extra ginger might be added into your bag, and your visits might even be welcomed with a smile! If nothing else, at least you will feel a sense of regularity in the surrounding chaos.

5) The small stuff
If you're like any other expat, you've got a drawer full of jiao's- those pesky one and five jiao (and some two's!) that no one really knows where to put to use. The wet market is the perfect place to unload these small bills. Market purchases are generally so cheap that rounding up or down isn't an option. 1.80 RMB here and 6.60 RMB there will quickly slim down a thick wallet full of jiao. Bring 100's only if you plan to shop for a rack of ribs, a couple of chickens, or for a weeks' supply of fruit. Then use the change to buy your produce.

6) What's a jin?
It you've been in China for awhile, you know perfectly well that jin is the common unit of measurement dealing with foods. A jin is 500g, or just over 1lb (1.1lbs, to be more precise). Most vendors will tell you how much a product is per jin when asked, “How do you sell this”, or “zhe ge zenme mai?” It's also helpful to familiarize yourself with the character jin, as many signs at the market advertise for price per jin: “/斤“. Other terms of measurement used are “ke” for each gram (100g = yi bai ke), and “liang”, which is 1/10 of a jin, or 50g

7) The art of the poke
Watching the woman next to you poke, prod and almost surgically excavate the chicken on the counter in front of you might set off the urge to pull out your hand sanitizer. It's not unusual for the Chinese to examine their meats and vegetables with a forceful hand before they choose one. If you're weary of poking raw meats, at least take this method with the vegetables, as all produce at the wet market is worth an examination. Don't be afraid to handle the vegetables, as chances are someone else already has. If you're not sure what a certain ripe vegetable is supposed to look like, don't hesitate to ask the vendor or a fellow shopper. The amusement of expats and a love of food are qualities of the Chinese that can work kindly in your favour.

8) Cilantro is your new best friend
In case you haven't noticed, China hasn't exactly perfected the art of windowsill herbs, only windowsill laundry. Cilantro is most often the only herb for miles at every market, luckily one that can be found 12 months of the year. Learning to incorporate cilantro into dressings, sauces, soups and garnished on main dishes can make your cooking life easier. The same goes for ingredients like garlic, ginger and multiple varieties of green onions available. Make sure to read up on how to use these ingredients, and go wild at the market.

9) For the meat weary
It's not a bad thing to be sceptical of meat in China- with all the food scares, even meat sold in supermarkets can be subject to questioning. As pork and chicken reign supreme on menus in China, seek out these proteins mainly for their quicker turnover rates and the higher number of vendors to choose from. With deliveries received each day, butchering is done at each vendor's stall, and any cut can be requested. If you're looking for a Western-portioned rack of ribs, it is worth asking if there are any other cuts aside from the ones laid out on display (chances are, yes). Additionally, the market is a great place to get freshly ground meat. Some vendors have industrial-style meat grinders and are happy to grind your pork (with any amount of skin and fat that you desire) on the spot. The chicken vendors sell chicken parts in addition to the whole animal- feet and livers are popular, yes, but they also have those beloved chicken breasts that are missed by expats all over China. Most importantly, even though the meat at the wet market may be fresher than your average supermarket picks, still exercise caution when purchasing proteins. If you're not comfortable with it, don't do it.

10) Eggs
For those of us that have been raised in cities where eggs, like donuts, are only sold by the dozen, the pyramid of eggs at the market may be a bit of a shock. There are always a variety of shapes and sizes to choose from- small quail eggs, preserved duck eggs, even large ostrich eggs. Even if you can't read Chinese, it's a safe bet to choose the eggs that are cheap and look like your every day supermarket eggs- these are the chicken eggs. Choose your eggs and examine for cracks. Some markets have cut-out holes on a ledge to place your eggs for examination, where you can flip a light switch on below the ledge. Carefully check for any unusual traces within the eggs once the light is on – though virtually unheard of, the light is to check whether there are any embryos in the egg you're choosing!
 

Related links
11 Chinese Condiments for the Expat Kitchen
Wolf in Shepp's Skin: Fake or Contaminated Foods in China
Eat Your Vegetables: Chinese Style

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Keywords: wet market China local Chinese markets buying vegetables and fruits China buying groceries Chinese city expat daily life China