The Remote Town of Wind and Rain—the ancient Phoenix City (Fenghuang)

The Remote Town of Wind and Rain—the ancient Phoenix City (Fenghuang)
May 25, 2009 By eChinacities.com

Location of Fenghuang:
Beside the Tuo River, western Hunan Province.

Feng Huang is an ancient city on a green mountain, with a tributary surrounding the city, red flagstone streets, a row of small-suspended buildings, an ancient wall ravaged by wind and rain. The mystical old castle there has weathered many changes in fortune. In addition, there is a magnificent cave, a grand old stone bridge, and Feng Huang is the home of many famous people. All of these influences inspired Shen Congwen, the famous writer, to write The Remote Town, a picturesque, dream-like, and gut-wrenching depiction of his native land.

Fragrances of spices and bacons drift in streets with pretty Hunan girls walking along. In the evening in the moonlight, the singing of Miao people may wake you. Going out of the city, you can see a mountain like a sharp sword reaching upward to the sky, rising from the leveled ground, which is called Mount Tianxing. There is a platform on the mountain top, with a pool called “Heavenly pool’, from which streams flow out without drying up, all the while surrounded by wild animals and birds. There is a Qiliang Cave at the foot of the mountain, with Mount Yunwu, the Heaven, Dragon Palace and Yinyang River in the cave.

beautiful old street on the river
Photo: Ifeng.com

old buildings on the river
Photo: Flickr.com

As a famous national historical and cultural city in China, “the ancient Phoenix city” is named as one of the most beautiful small cities in China by New Zealand writer Rewi Alley. First established in the Qing Dynasty, this “pearl in west Hunan” is really small, with only one decent street from east to west in the city, which is, however, a green corridor.

The scenery in Fenghuang is a combination of natural and human traits, involving the superb craftsmanship of the nature and also collecting former residences of many Chinese famous people. It attracts guests from all over the world with its unique charm.

• Main scenic spots:  
Boating in Tuojiang River, East Gate City Tower, Shen Congwen’s former residence, Yang’s ancestral temple and Huangsiqiao old town (inside the town); Southern Great Wall and Qiliang Cave (outside the town)

 

Prices:
Joint ticket to 11 scenic spots: RMB 226/person including 9 spots inside the town and two spots outside the town
Joint ticket to 9 scenic spots inside the town: RMB 148/person

Southern Great Wall: RMB 45/person
Qiliang Cave: RMB 50/person
Bonfire Palace folk party: RMB 98/person
Wanshou Palace bonfire party: RMB 128/person
Chaoyang Palace: RMB 10/person

Tips:
You should also buy the joint ticket to 9 scenic spots inside the town even if you only want to visit one scenic spot, but you can buy ticket to scenic spots outside the town separately.

• How to get there:
From Wuxi, Shanghai and Hangzhou:
By air: Take a plane to Zhangjiajie Hehua Airport and then transfer to train/bus to Jishou or directly to Fenghuang
By train: Take train from Wuxi and Shanghai to Jishou Station and transferring a bus to Fenghuang

From Beijing:
By train:
1. Train K267 from Beijing to Zhangjiajie (12:20-12:23 (second day));
2. There are many express buses from Changsha West Bus Station to Zhangjiajie. Visitors can take train to Changsha and transfer a bus to Fenghuang from Changsha West Bus Station

By air:
1. Take plane from Beijing to Zhangjiajie Hehua Airport and transferring bus to Fenghuang.
2. Take plane from Beijing to Changsha Airport and flying to Zhangjiajie Hehua Airport from Changsha and then taking bus to Fenghuang

From Guangdong:
Shenzhen, Guangzhou and Shaoguan: taking the train from Shenzhen West to Huaihua to arrive at Jishou and transfer to a bus which takes 1 hour to Fenghuang
Shenzhen: taking flight CZ8943 to Guizhou Tongren Daxing Airport and charter a bus or take a taxi for 1 hour to Fenghuang
Guangzhou: taking flight CZ8973 to Guizhou Tongren Daxing Airport and charter a bus or take a taxi for 1 hour to Fenghuang

• Internal transportation:
The county town of Fenghuang is quite small, so it’s generally no need to take bus. The starting fare for taking taxi is RMB 2 and the fare for taking an environmental battery car is RMB 1/person.

• Dining:
Located in Hunan, Fenghuang mainly serves Hunan dishes, which are tasty, spicy and strong in flavor. Some typical specialties are worthy of tasting.

Tuojiang fish: small fish with spicy taste

Fenghuang fish
Photo: Enjoychina

Duck with duck blood: most typical dish in Fenghuang, with both fresh and strong flavor of duck and also the soft feeling of blood. It is a rare delicacy.

 

Fenghuang Duck
Photo: Sharechn.com

Dashi Restaurant—one of the most famous restaurants in Fenghuang
Add: 22 Jianshe Lu, Fenghuang
Tel: 0743-3222340
Price: RMB 20~40/person

Shibanjie Restaurant
Add: Daomenkou, Fenghuang
Tel: 0743-3223721

Lou Wai Lou
Add: 3 Huilongge, Fenghuang
Tel: 0743-3502498

Shuishanglou Restaurant
Add: Shuimenkou, Fenghuang
Tel: 0743-3501586

• Accommodation:
Muxiyuan Family Hotel - near the street, clean, cheap with friendly owner
Add: 64 Huilongge, Fenghuang
Tel: 0743-3229801
Mobile Phone: 13974356493
Contact person: Teng Xiaohong
Price: RMB 60~100

Yingxilou Hotel - very clean, you can have a full view of the Diaojiao building clusters
Add: 24 Shawan, alongside Tuojiang River, Fenghuang
Tel: 0743-3261356
Price: RMB 100~150

A Qian Hotel - friendly owner, serving delicious dishes and offering warming environment
Add: 88 Laoyingshao, Fenghuang
Tel: 13974306715
Price: RMB 60~100

***

Related links:

China Explorer> Why YOU should be hostelling!
China Explorer> How I Became Known to Guilin as 'The Naked Guy', Pt 1
China Explorer> Mountain Escapade- How to Reach the Top of the World

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