Nanchang Lu sits quietly behind the busy and at times overbearing Huaihai Lu. This unassuming, inner-city street offers an enchanting glimpse into the real life of Shanghai’s French Concession.

The browning and gently falling leaves of tree-lined Nanchang Lu shade intriguing fashion boutiques, restaurants, beauty parlours and more traditional Chinese retailers. Many long-term expats cite it as among their favourite of all streets in Shanghai, and it’s hard not to be won over by its subtle blend of charm and convenience. It’s possible to live here too, and even if you’re only passing through it feels much like a home away from home. So where to start?

Dragonfly – Therapeutic Retreat 悠庭保健会所View In Map
84 Nanchang Lu, near Yandang Lu 南昌路84号近雁荡路
021 -5386 0060

Dragonfly caters for all your beauty needs, from the essential waxing, manicures and pedicures, to the more luxurious spa, massage, facial and tanning services.
Dragonfly is a reputable beauty chain with nine stores throughout Puxi and Pudong, as well as other regions of China and elsewhere in the world. The prices are higher than you’ll find at regular massage parlours, but are still certainly affordable. The Nanchang Lu store’s current ‘Privilege Card’ offer is a good deal, at RMB3000 for 12 months holders receive a 30 per cent discount on massages and a 15 per cent discount on all nail care, waxing, tanning, facials and retail products.

 YYsView In Map
125 Nanchang Lu, near Maoming Lu 南昌路125号，近茂名南路
021- 6466 4098

One of Shanghai’s longest-serving and most atmospheric bars, YYs brings something of the charm of a Dutch coffeehouse to the city, both in its dark-wood panels and its smoky, evocative air. Drinks here are not especially cheap, but it’s hard to beat for authenticity. It’s even been immortalised in art, having featured in a hard-to-forget scene in Wei Hui’s Shanghai Baby, “The atmosphere in the room was joyous, full of alcohol, perfume, money, saliva, and hormones.” (The hard-to-forget part comes just after...)

Restaurant Art Salon 屋里香食府艺术沙龙View In Map
164 Nanchang Lu, near Sinan Lu 南昌路164号(近思南路)
021- 5306 5462

If the stunning teal blue framework and the frosty stained glass windows don’t entice you, opening the fabulous French doors will transport you into a gorgeously eclectic little restaurant. At Restaurant Art Salon it’s a family affair. Artist brother Xie Cheng “Jack” and his brother Xie Wei opened the restaurant five years ago. Their passionate story can be read, albeit in broken English, on the restaurants sadly rather tacky laminated menu.

The restaurant is a real find, amidst a city flooded with ‘all you can eat’ package deals that are neither appealing nor appetising. They serve traditional Shanghainese cuisine, using no MSG and instead preparing their food using olive oil. Prices start at 28 RMB for entrees and 48 RMB for mains. Try the River Shrimps (98 RMB); a Shanghainese favourite. And it’s not just the food that’s up for grabs. Besides the Xie brothers, everything in this ornate, unpresumptuous restaurant is for sale; from the gorgeous artworks to the antique table that you dine at.

Put simply, Restaurant Art Salon is a genuinely interesting and alternative take on traditional Shanghainese cuisine – definitely worth a visit. Their sister restaurant (also run by the brothers) Cheng Cheng’s, on Donghu Lu (Number 30, near Huaihai Lu), is also rather special. 

Contentm 目录View In Map
153 South Maoming Lu, front door on Nanchang Lu 茂名南路153号
021- 5466 5267

Even if you’re not looking to spend, this shop is well worth the visit. Sitting at the end of a row of women’s boutiques Contentm is without doubt the most captivating of them all. Each item is hung purposefully in circularly fashion, and is set off by the white walls and high ceiling. Contentm’s intimate boutique showcases its pieces in such a way that the store could just as easily be a gallery. The bold designs use a mixture of cottons and silks, mostly blocked black and white graphics of busy streetscapes and other flash prints of celebrities. Contentm represents Shanghai’s growing influence in international fashion. It goes almost without saying that the pieces are designed for tiny Chinese waists and petite frames. If that doesn’t interest you maybe it will inspire you to go on a diet! 

Baixing Fruit Store 百姓水果店View In Map
177 Nanchang Lu, near Maoming Lu 南昌路177号近茂名路

You can’t miss this grocer; the fresh, bright colours are as exciting as the range of produce on offer, from Chinese greens to exotic fruits. But don’t worry – all the basics are here too! The prices are very reasonable, and considerably cheaper than the imported produce at foreign supermarkets in the area. Heads up though, the prices are not displayed, so make sure to have a running tally of what you have selected before it’s time to hand over the cash! 

I. D. Hair 艺发汇View In Map
274 Nanchang Lu, near Maoming Nanlu 南昌路274号近茂名南路
021 -3406 0490

Regularly noted as one of Shanghai’s top salons, I.D. Hair attracts international business as well as the wealthy locals. Don’t be put off by the chandeliers, the prices here are decent, starting at only RMB 120 for a shampoo, cut and finish. They increase incrementally with the level of stylist and the specifics of the desired treatment.
The salon has internationally trained hairdressers so if you’re looking for someone to tend your long blonde locks- you’re in luck. There are so many staff in here; two young boys in black t-shirts and English nametags open the double glass doors, you’re then welcomed to a front desk where three people will take down your booking and usher you to your seat. Someone else washes your hair and in the case where you hairdresser doesn’t speak English you’ll have a translator too.

I. D. Hair is a hip hangout venue as much as a hairdressers and the trendy young ‘rent a crowd’ create a busy, fun and lively atmosphere. I. D. also provide nail and make-up services, so it’s the perfect place to start a big night out on the town. And they’ve just opened another branch only as few minutes walk west, just across Maoming. 

Joffre Gardens Apartments 霞飞苑View In Map
555 Nanchang Lu, near Shaanxi Nan Lu 南昌路555号近陕西南路

If you’re looking for somewhere to live, Joffre Gardens offers a fantastic lifestyle for its expat residents. A three tower-block complex, the building is set back from the dusty street section and welcomes its residents with a manicured garden and play equipment for the children

In such a fantastic location most amenities are all within walking distance including the Parkson department store, complete with a clean and well-stocked supermarket.
Metro line One is a three-minute walk away and takes you down town to People’s Square in a matter of minutes. Car, motorbike and bicycle parking is also available for those wanting to venture further. There are many ways to view these properties; googling Joffre Gardens Shanghai will reveal a number of agents available to show you around. Charlie Huang from Phoenix Property Agency (133 0188 6133) comes especially highly recommended.

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