Traditional Dalian fare belongs to the Shandong discipline of Chinese cuisine. Shandong cuisine came into being during the Yuan Dynasty oysters, with mushrooms and bamboo shoots complementing main dishes. Shandong chefs enjoy adding onions for a little extra punch, which has resulted in such dishes as "sea cucumber stewed with onions" and its slightly more daring variant, "cartilage stewed with onions". Other dishes to watch for are "stewed seasonal shrimp", "steamed abalone in clear soup", and the ever-popular "Eight Immortals Crossing the Sea", a legendary Confucian feast originating over 2,000 years ago and in which each one of shark's fin, sea cucumbers, abalone, shrimp, fishbone, fish maw, asparagus, and ham (the immortals) are boiled in chicken broth (the sea).

Being a seaside city, there are so many excellent seafood restaurants in Dalian, it's almost impossible to choose one or two that are better than the rest. If you're ever having trouble deciding on a place, you can always try the Chinese method of dining assessment - if it's full of people, it's bound to be good. Be warned, however - seafood lovers should avoid Dalian from July to August. Coastal fishing is illegal during this time, and the choices and freshness decline markedly.

For those looking for something classier, hotel restaurants are a solid bet. The Shangri-la hotel's Shang Palace deserves a special mention.

When you've had all the seafood you can take, or if you're just disinclined towards the stuff, head over to Tianjin Street for family restaurants and stalls serving jiaozi, fried cakes, and other Chinese fare. International cuisines, such as Italian and Russian, are newly available in this rapidly developing city.

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