Guangzhou Days, Arabian Nights

Guangzhou Days, Arabian Nights
By Thomas Ackerman , eChinacities.com

Guangzhou has long been a trading city, and today, the streets are especially alive with communities from all over the world. One happy result of that is the diversity of food now on offer, and few things taste more of the exotic than food from the Middle East. There are many Middle-Eastern restaurants dotted around Guangzhou, mostly setup by and for Arabs here on business – this is a trading city after all – and the streets around Yuexiu Park and Liuhuahu Park offer particularly rich pickings.

Al-Khalil Caffee, a modest diner and cafe on Dongfeng Xilu, is one the best. That's not because the food is more spectacular than any of the others scattered among the nearby streets, but because of its quite wonderful setting and truly relaxed atmosphere. You can lay back on the couches here, amidst brick-lined arches and stucco walls, while folks in the next room smoke on their shisha.
Al-Khalil's plates are mostly standard fare for Arab food, with low to mid-range prices that never top 55 RMB. Their fried falafel is particularly tasty, and both the lamb with potatoes and the chicken shish, are worth trying. While you're there, you can choose from an array of teas, including Yansoon, Karekadeh, and Mhalabeyeh. Far better, though, to blend in with a strong shot of Turkish coffee.

Al Khalil Caffee View In Map
Address: 179 Dongfeng Xilu, Yuexiu District, Guangzhou 广州东风西路179号
Directions: Take Metro to Ximenkou, turn right on Renmin Beilu, turn left at Dongfeng Xilu, take the pedestrian walkway to the opposite side and the restaurant is hiding behind the ramp.
Hours: 24-hours
Phone: 020 - 8105 4110

If you like Al Khalil's you might want to try Albasha, just across the street. The staff told me that Basha, Khalil's Syrian owner, also owns this restaurant, which serves Arabic, Thai, and Chinese cuisine. However, they disavowed Basha's ownership the very next day over the phone.

Albasha芭莎View In Map
Address: 1F, Hutian Hotel, 156 Dongfeng Xilu, Yuexiu District, Guangzhou 广州市越秀区东风西路156号湖天宾馆首层
Directions: Same as Khalil's, but don't cross the street
Hours: 8 am – 12:30 am
Phone: 020 - 8108 0990, 8100 6728

Another Middle-Eastern restaurant in the Liuhuahu neighborhood is Orient Palace, which you can't miss as you turn up Renmin Beilu. An ornate fountain greets you as you enter this palatial space, a luxurious eatery which, if emptied out, would seemingly be large enough to function as a sports arena. Orient Palace has an appropriately voluminous array of dishes, including many Arabic styles and international cuisine as well. Despite the more than stylish surroundings at Orient Palace, many of the plates are not too expensive. A good place to come if you need English assistance in choosing your meal.

Orient Palace 迅豪餐厅View In Map
Address: 875 Renmin Beilu, Guangzhou 广州人民北路875号
Directions: Take metro to Ximenkou, turn right on Renmin Bei Lu, keep going until you pass Dong Feng Xi Lu, the restaurant is on your left
Hours: 11 am –12 pm
Phone: 020 - 8136 2438, 8136 2439
Website: http://www.orientpalace.com.cn/index1_eng.asp (English)

Huanshi Zhonglu, in the strip north-east of Yuexiu Park, is another bastion of Guangzhou's Arab community, with various stores and eateries including Sinbad Restaurant. Sinbad's food is authentic and very tasty and the place deserves more than one visit. They offer Arabic and Yemeni plates with a smaller selection of Chinese dishes. They also carry breakfasts, various salads, and breads, some of which are simply enormous.

Sinbad Restaurant 辛巴德餐厅View In Map
Address: 272 Huanshi Zhonglu, Yuexiu District, Guangzhou 广州市越秀区环市中路272号Directions: Take metro to Yuexiu Park, exit at Yuexiu exit, walk up to Huanshi Zhonglu and turn right, proceed about ten minutes and the restaurant strip is on your right.
Hours: 7:30 am –12 pm
Phone: 020 - 8356 2361, 8354 0703

Further along Huanshi Zhong Lu is Shami House, a restaurant which blends Lebanese, Turkish and Syrian cuisine: think olive salad, kebabs, and lamb with yogurt. Their international fare is ambitious enough to include arrabiata and quatro formaggio pizza. They also offer an evening buffet. Some reviewers claim Shami is one of the most authentic joints in town.

Shami House 沙米屋View In Map
Address: 2F, Zhaoqing Building, 304 Huanshi Zhonglu, Guangzhou 广州环市中路304号肇庆大厦2楼
Directions: Same as to Sinbad, but continue further down Huanshi Zhonglu
Hours: 9 am –12 pm
Phone: 020 - 8355 3012, 8355 3091 [recorded messages]
Website: www.shamihouse.net

Just one block up from Yuexiu Park, next to China Hotel, is 1001 Nights, unmistakable for its decadent interior and faux-historical Muslim stylings, shimmering under chandeliers. This spectacular restaurant aims for real Arab flare, with shishas and belly dancing attracting crowds in the evening. Staff at 1001 Nights are always friendly and helpful, it’s just a shame their food doesn’t hit quite the same highs.

1001 Nights 一千一夜View In Map
Address: Jinzhou International Business Center, 899 Jiefang Beilu, Yuexiu District, Guangzhou
广州市越秀区解放北路899号,锦洲国际商务中心
Directions: Take metro to Yuexiu and use exit E, the restaurant is just a few feet up the road
Hours: 11 am – 2 pm
Phone: 020 - 3618 2280, 3618 2281
Web: http://www.1001nights.com.cn/NewsInfo.asp?id=79 (Chinese)

There are plenty more Middle-Eastern restaurants in Guangzhou. However, venues come and go at speed, and so, if you have a particular one in mind, it’s safest to call ahead before you go. If you’re just taking a stroll, the Yuexiu and Liuhuahu area offer the most choices. And when Xiaobei metro stop opens in the future, Huanshi Zhong Lu and Xiaobei Lu will be even more convenient for those looking to fulfill their craving for kebabs.

Note that most Middle-Eastern restaurants keep different hours during the month of Ramadan.

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