A North Korea Travel Guide for China Expats

A North Korea Travel Guide for China Expats
Jan 17, 2015 By Trey Archer , eChinacities.com

The Democratic People’s Republic of Korea is the world’s most mysterious country. The Stalinist regime has been ruled by one family for more than six decades, its economy is isolated under a Marxist system, foreign influence is greatly regulated and it even has its own pseudo religious ideology known as Juche, based off the principal of self-reliance. In other words, North Korea is a time warp and a true relic of the Cold War that hasn’t changed much since its founding. So why would anyone want to spend their holiday there? While places like Thailand sound like a more fun option, a trip to North Korea is definitely more unique since there’s nowhere else like it. If you’re living in or traveling through China and would like to catch a glimpse of the Hermit Kingdom while you’re here, be sure to check out our North Korea travel guide for China expats for some useful information to get you on your way.

Korth Korea travel guide
Source: theatlantic.com

My DPRK Experience

In 2009 I traveled to Kim Jong Il’s North Korea. I was a little nervous being a citizen of the United States—North Korea’s sworn enemy—but was nonetheless thrilled to see another country different from my home and all the other places I had visited. Even though I was expecting to see the Kim cult of personality in full force on every corner, gray block buildings common in the communist world and a lack of the most basic 21st century technology like cell phones (all of which proved true), the most interesting aspect for me were the things I was least expecting.

My favorite memory from the trip was riding a double loop roller coaster at a Pyongyang theme park. The rail was eroding and probably hadn’t been inspected in ages (making me believe that particular thrill ride would be my last) but it amazingly held up and made for a great story and a good scare! Touring some of the monuments and historic landmarks like the Kim Il Sung Mausoleum where “The Great Leader” is preserved, the northern front of the DMZ and watching the world’s largest choreographed performance at the Arirang Festival (aka Mass Games) also proved to be incredible experiences that I’ll remember forever. I even managed to get off the tourist trail and drink with a group of locals and toasted to American-North Korean friendship while singing karaoke! That’s truly something not too many of my fellow countrymen can claim, unless of course your name is Dennis Rodman…

Restrictions

For all you backpackers looking to cross the border individually, listen up. First of all, no one is permitted to travel independently in North Korea. All travelers must be accompanied by a travel guide and/or tour group. There is absolutely no way around this one unless you’re prepared for the dire consequences of sneaking in, which some Westerners have ignorantly done in the past (no need to mention what happened to them after being caught).

Next, when I was there several years ago, I had to leave some items in a box at Beijing airport since some things, especially my iPod with South Korean hip-hop songs, were strictly forbidden. However, times have changed and now laptops, cameras, notebooks, tablets, cell phones, MP3 players and e-readers are all permitted (though any South Korean “propaganda” might still raise a red flag). G3 internet access was even available for tourists for a short while, but that service has been discontinued and only allowed for foreigners residing in the DPRK; so it may not be worth bringing your laptop.

Last, there are a few rules for U.S. passport holders. American citizens are only allowed to fly into the country and not take the train. Other nationalities in contrast are allowed to take the train in from China since the border is closed between North and South Korea. When I was there, American tourists were not only restricted from train travel, but were also limited to a five day stay and could only travel during the months of August and September—the same time as the Mass Games. The only other nationality with strict tourist restrictions is for residents of the Republic of Korea, since South Koreans are not allowed in as tourists. It’s also important to note that at the time of this writing all tourists are limited to a maximum three-month stay.

North Korea Tour Providers

There are several legitimate tour providers that will organize your excursion. Though each organization varies, they will all take care of the visa process, arrange your hotel accommodations and provide you with the necessary government registered tour guides. I used Koryo Tours and can vow for them since they were organized and professional with reasonable prices. Koryo is also based out of Beijing and owned by a British national who’s traveled to the DPRK numerous times.

Juche Travel Service, Dandong Chosun Tour Service and The Pyongyang Project are some other tour companies based out of China. There are also many others based out of Europe, North America and Asia—check Wikitravel for a good reference. Prices vary depending on season, time spent in the country, group vs. private tour etc., but the absolute cheapest you can get for a basic tour will be around $2,000 USD, which would most likely include transportation in and out of North Korea, your hotel, breakfast and dinner and visa and tour guide services.

Personal Safety

Safety is always a concern for the traveler wandering into a country like North Korea. I remember when I told my Grandpa—who was shot down over Pyongyang during the Korean War in 1952 and is still alive to tell the tale—that I was going to visit and he thought I was insane! In reality, North Korea is an extremely safe place. One of the upsides to having tour guides is they can make sure nothing bad happens to you and keep you out of restricted government zones. North Korea is also a police state, which means that crimes against locals are rare given the draconian consequences and, like China any crime committed against a foreigner, will be met with an iron fist. Based off my personal experience, the average North Korean is proud to have a foreigner in their country and go to great lengths to ensure they’re treated well. I saw this first hand when the locals allowed me and the other seven Americans in my group to cut the line of over 100 individuals waiting to ride the roller coaster.

As most of us already know, national governments don’t always reflect on the people as a whole, so it’s important to separate the government’s agenda with the average person’s beliefs. However, within the last several months, the new leader Kim Jong Un has acted belligerently as if he were trying to re-ignite the Korean War by nullifying a peace treaty, continuing with ballistic missile launches condemned by the UN and putting the military on “high alert”.  I asked a representative from Koryo Tours about the current situation and she explained that they have only had to cancel tours once in their entire 20 years of business and that was during the SARS outbreak. For extra precaution, in case the worst-case scenario unfolds, the tour company keeps in close contact with the British Embassy in Pyongyang and if they warn against foreign visits, tours will be postponed.

Conclusion

If you’re on the fence about visiting the DPRK, just don’t take my word for it. There’s no harm in contacting a tour agency to ask any personal questions you may have. But the longer you wait the more you could potentially miss. North Korea is seeing more tourism than ever before and that number is only expected to rise as the country slowly modernizes and develops. Many say that visiting North Korea now is similar to visiting Mao’s China, and we all know how China has changed and what it looks like today. Who knows which path North Korea will take, but in some ways, even though I personally disagree with his rule and ideology, I’m happy to have traveled to Kim Jong Il’s North Korea while it was still there to learn about one of the world’s most controversial countries.

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Keywords: North Korea travel guide North Korea tour providers

18 Comments

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Guest14204170

Thanks, I enjoyed reading your article. But, I'm really wondering how much a package like this would cost.

Apr 08, 2015 14:50 Report Abuse

bill8899

I don't do guided tours, thanks. Besides, it's just too cold for me.

Jan 18, 2015 03:44 Report Abuse

musicjunkiealex

I refuse to go anywhere that I cannot travel independently. The cost is simply ridiculous for what you get and apart from the fact that it's North Korea would it be interesting if it wasn't the hermit state that it is? Being led around like a sheep with no control over what you can see or do is not my idea of fun. I'm sure it's a unique experience simply because it's North Korea and all that it entails but I think I'll pass.

Jan 17, 2015 15:20 Report Abuse

jasonmoore

I wouldn't give my money to a fake system who have adopted foreign ideologies to suppress millions of people. I couldn't sit back and enjoy the scenery ,where you know, just beyond the woods there are starving kids and bodies strewn on the streets that you don't get to see. That's not my idea of tourism. Would you go to a country where greed and lies and torture are the acceptable norm ? Disgusting, just so you can say ' hey I did that ! '. I could t sit in a hotel and stuff my fat belly whilst being served by scared ,poor and suppressed staff. If your going to go there, at least take out a politician or something, be a man.

Aug 28, 2013 17:01 Report Abuse

Guest2071644

it's true, why go anywhere where there's such extreme problems? it's not like we're living in china or anything, a country with grave human rights concerns...

Aug 31, 2013 15:54 Report Abuse

jasonmoore

I dont think its quite like North Korea.It's much more open here and everything is practically on display. Long gone are the days when they followed you and checked you out, beat up any locals who talked to you etc. Not any more.

Aug 31, 2013 19:19 Report Abuse

Guest2310994

Even England has grave human rights issues, let me know of a country which doesn't if you have google available.

Aug 31, 2013 19:23 Report Abuse

ajsrok

If you want to travel to DPRK with a cheaper option, I would recommend Explore North Korea based in Dandong. Tours start at 5,800 RMB and one can travel both ways on the train. The train is one of the most eye opening experiences, and should not be missed. You get all the places one would get with the other tour companies. http://www.explorenorthkorea.com

Aug 28, 2013 16:22 Report Abuse

maithedan

I went to DPRK recently. Thoroughly enjoyed it. I would recommend it as a must see destination while you are living so close. The people, the food, the culture - I took away some great memories and still keep in touch with some of the people I met there.

Aug 24, 2013 15:54 Report Abuse

instantkarma

One word of warning - don't play golf in DPRK. If you get a better score than Kim Jong Il you'll be incarcerated. Actually thinking about it, it's impossible to get a better score so play and they'll salute you for your worse score. Ok don't wander off the allowed track then. One South Korean tourist got shot. So for safety, only see what they want you to see. If it's all too hard go and see Auschwitz instead. Think I'm joking? http://www.abc.net.au/news/2013-08-20/n-korea-prison-camps-torture-exposed-by-un-hearing/4900924

Aug 24, 2013 15:16 Report Abuse

ironman510

Heads up, I went last year with a tour group, all and all, it will cost you 12,000 RMB for everything and the extra money for other stuff, you only get to see inside the main city, can't go out to the slums.

Aug 23, 2013 12:22 Report Abuse

beaufortninja

Your travel dollars help keep the DPRK government on its feet. If you went there and freely gave them your money then you're an idiot. The people don't have food to eat and dissenters are tortured and murdered in prison camps. The government allows the military to continually violate ceasefire agreements with the US and ROK which has led to many needless deathes as well. But yes, I'm sure your travel dollars will go to some superfluous construction project and not into nuclear weapons programs or porn collections for the Kim family.

Aug 23, 2013 11:11 Report Abuse

carlstar

Travel dollars aren't keeping the north afloat, you could say it is about the same as going to the US you are helping to keep the poor poorer as some greedy business man is going to take all the money and pay their employees as little as possible...... We could also say this whole situation could be argued on the reverse. The US spends so much on the military yet it fails to house, feed and care for its most vulnerable citizens………. The north gets aid from China, some help from South Korea and other countries by staging acts like nuclear and missile tests and then promises not to do them again for money and aid.... If you think a nation that is living under a military dictatorship is going to just cave into a world, that it has never had a desire to be a part of and was forced into joining, that is threatened on every border by military's that it has had conflicts with in the past 100 years then I question your actual understanding of events and consequences for these events. History is longer than how long you have been alive and so easily over looked.

Aug 23, 2013 11:52 Report Abuse

beaufortninja

The US and DPRK are completely different. Yes, the US fudges up quite a bit but trying to redirect the conversation into that is disingenuous. Read the reports being given to the UN by defectors and see what's up. And the DPRK has been a complete f@ckhead for it's entire history.

Aug 23, 2013 21:22 Report Abuse

carlstar

How are they different? Each side uses their military to progress their goals. Those that lose out are those that are the poorest and the most vulnerable. All those millions in america are of no importance anymore? Are the poor and down trodden now used to fight for those that wish to use them to get richer and to conquer like the Romans did in their dying years? ...... North Korea, Korea or Manchuria was pretty happy to be as it was. Whose right is it to make these people do what they are told to do today? The Chinese? Japanese? Americans? Are they not allowed to defend themselves like we like to do in the free world with all means of destructive matters? Who used the Bomb to laud it over the East? The US but who surprised the US about 5 years later? USSR. Why has this so called beacon of freedom been threatening the world since 1945? Why have we been under the thumb of the likes of Truman and the rest of the US Presidents that see the world as their own place to make money from? IS that true freedom or freedom only governed by an america and a west that sees only it's interest and not that of the peoples?...... How is a child in charge of a country that is fearful of those that are not them the f@ckhead? Just by describing a group like this, generally shows your disrespect for these people and their right to govern the way they wish. We are not all Republic, Democratic or capitalist and we do not all have to live like what others think we should be like. That is something called freedom isn’t it…... One day in america you will understand that you need to have friends to help you and not friends just by forcing them. USA was only created by having France support them and Britain only survived France by finally understanding allies could stop the unstoppable that was Napoleon. Bullies do a great job in the short term but not even Julius, Napoleon, Britain or the Nazis could survive against the force of those that truly wanted to be free and live how they wanted.

Aug 24, 2013 00:11 Report Abuse

Guest2218052

I would say same about US.

Aug 24, 2013 15:50 Report Abuse

beaufortninja

And you still haven't acknowledged the crimes the DPRK commits against it's own people. You've written an essay about how bad America is which is hackneyed and irrelevant to the OP. By the way, I hardly think the North Korean people govern themselves the way they wish. Thousands upon thousands of people are imprisoned for political dissent but I suppose you would disagree. I get it. You went there and had a great time (I guess). Good for you.

Aug 25, 2013 17:45 Report Abuse

carlstar

It is very easy to write a lot when there is a lot to write. Why does one write about the US in this situation? For one you bought up the whole argument of not supporting the evil North in a topic that is about “Have a trip to the north, it is fun” and to have the other side, the enemy of the north seems prudent in this situation if we are bagging the north…… I do agree that political prisoners are a bad thing in the North and I would never justify them but let’s add the parallel, the US has an economically based prison system the biggest by number and percentage in the world, in other words it is a money making industry. Those that it puts in prison tend to be black and poor, not political but economical and racial prisoners instead. There are laws in the US that target minorities unduly just because they are minorities….. Both need to change and both need to own up to their glaring and obvious foibles.

Aug 26, 2013 13:10 Report Abuse