Go West: On the Trail of Xinjiang Food

Go West: On the Trail of Xinjiang Food
By Susie Gordon , eChinacities.com

Most expats living in China realise pretty quickly that Chinese food is a lot more varied than the traditional kung pow chicken and sweet and sour pork that’s served in takeaways and restaurants back home. From the stodgy potato and meat stews of Dongbei to the intriguing fried insects of Guangxi, Chinese cuisine is as varied as you would expect for such a huge country.

One of the most interesting styles of food comes from the Xinjiang Uighur Autonomous Region, China’s largest province. As in the nations it borders (including Pakistan and Kazakhstan), Xinjiang is a predominantly Muslim region, populated by the Uighur minority. The food found here shares certain similarities with Central Asian and Arabian cuisine.

Xinjiang’s signature dish is roast mutton. It is as iconic as Peking Duck is to Beijing, and xiaolongbao to Shanghai. The Uighur way of cooking mutton is to rub salt, eggs, ginger, scallions and pepper onto a skinned two-year-old sheep, and roast it on a stove for about an hour until the skin is brown. The Friday Muslim market on Changde Lu in Shanghai (see below for more details) is a great place to see this sort of meat being cooked, and, for just a few RMB, you can buy a tray to try from.

Luckily, for Shanghai-ites craving Xinjiang food, or visitors wanting to give it a try, there are plenty of restaurants here. Here’s a selection of the best and most popular:

Yershari 耶里夏丽
This atmospheric Uighur restaurant south of the French Concession is famous for its savoury yoghurt and black beer. Their lamb skewers are also worth the trip.

Nandan Location View In Map
Add: 106 Nandan Dong Lu, near Tianyaoqiao Lu, Xuhui District, Shanghai
上海徐汇区南丹东路106号(近天钥桥路)
Tel: 021 6468 6079 

Dunhuang Xiaoting敦煌小亭
Shanghai’s main mosque is located on Changde Lu, making this street a focal point of Muslim activity. Along with the weekly Muslim market on Fridays, Changde is home to the Dunhuang Xiaoting restaurant. Serving both Xinjiang food and fare from neighbouring Gansu Province, Dunhuang’s nosh is incredibly cheap and tasty. Particularly good are the lamb pita sandwiches. There is also a branch on Tianyaoqiao Lu.

Changde Lu Location View In Map
Add: 333 Changde Lu, near Beijing Xi Lu, Shanghai
上海静安区常德路333号 
Tel: 021 6218 2579

Tianyaoqiao Lu LocationView In Map
Add: B1, In Center, 580 Tianyaoqiao Lu, near Lingling Lu, Shanghai
上海徐汇区天钥桥路580号星游城B1楼 
Tel: 021 6161 9765

Uighur Restaurant 新疆风味饭馆维吾尔餐厅 View In Map

This simply-named Xinjiang joint is popular thanks to its excellent food. Situated right in the centre of town, it offers all the classics like lamb skewers, hearty meat dishes, and Xinjiang-brewed dark beer.

Add: 280 Yishan Lu, near Nandan Lu, Xuhui District, Shanghai
上海徐汇区宜山路280号
Tel:021 6468 9198 

Feng Yuan Ting 凤园亭 View In Map
This French Concession gem does a great caramelised banana dessert to finish off a tasty Xinjiang meal. Their fried tomato and egg dish is a bargain at 10 RMB, and their lamb skewers go for a standard 2 RMB each.

Add: 246 Xiangyang Nanlu, near Fuxing Zhonglu, Shanghai
上海市徐汇区襄阳南路246
Tel: 021 6466 9590 

Yakexi东方亚克西 View In Map

If you want the full Xinjiang experience, Yakexi is the place to go. It has a jovial atmosphere, well-cooked food and especially friendly staff. The signature dish is slow-cooked lamb stew.
Add: 379 Xikang Lu, near Wuding Lu, Jing’an District, Shanghai
上海静安区西康路379号(近武定路)
Tel: 021 6267 3755 

Hu Yang胡杨 View In Map
Located close to Shanghai Railway Station, this restaurant offers another authentic experience. It’s a local place for local people, so don’t be surprised if you turn a few heads. The staff don’t speak English; if your Chinese isn’t up to scratch, you’ll be choosing from the photos on the menu. Food here is tasty and comes in big portions.
Add: 635 Laohumin Lu, near Meilong Lu
徐汇区老沪闵路635号 (近梅陇路)
Tel: 021 6423 8516

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