Quenching a Thirst: On the Search for Craft Beer in China

Quenching a Thirst: On the Search for Craft Beer in China
May 28, 2011 By John Herrington , eChinacities.com

China is one the biggest beer consumers in the world. In some parts of the country, bottled beer is cheaper than bottled water. Of course one of the most famous beers in China is Qingdao (transliterated as ‘Tsingtao’ from the old Wade-Giles system of Romanization), so when I first went to the delightful port town of Qingdao I did a whole lot of beer tasting. Although Qingpi (Qingdao beer) and Laopi (Laoshan beer) will always be favourite beers of mine, I have learned to appreciate craft beers in China over the mass produced lagers.

Although lagers are one of the most popular beers in the world, they certainly aren't the best. Craft beers have bags more flavour and differ from brewer to brewer. Whereas a blind tasting between Qingpi and Laopi may be indistinguishable to the average consumer, craft beers can contain much more individual character. But it's not difficult to wean yourself off the bland industrial lagers and get yourself hooked on never ending craft beer adventure (your liver might not be so forgiving though).

The biggest difference between the mass produced lagers and craft beer is the taste. Craft beers can be a little bit more expensive but they're generally higher in alcohol and they're made with true love. The mass-produced lagers are made to be the least offensive to the mass public. This is why you will find adjuncts such as rice used in their recipes; rice is lighter and is much more bland in taste.

Craft beers live more on the wild side of things and seem less worried about offending people. Many craft brewers use local ingredients, everything from fresh fruit, herbs, spices to pine needles and pumpkins. Some craft brewers are very intent on brewing to style, and brew the world’s traditional beers the way they were brewed 150 years ago. Other craft brewers throw all kinds of stuff into the brew kettle (liquorice, aniseed, nettles etc) looking to find some new combination of flavours. The sense of smell and taste are powerful vehicles that can take you back to your childhood; aroma and flavour in some hidden craft brew is your ticket to ride. 

I'm always on a quest to find new craft beers and China is no exception. Of course a lot of imports can be found on the shelves of some higher-end grocery stores and trendy bars, but I'm more on the look out for the local brew. I've found wonderful beers being brewed in Dali, Yunnan at the Bad Monkey Brewhouse. It opened in August 2010 and is the only microbrewery in Dali (at the time of writing. Smart entrepreneurial boozehounds would do well to set up some local friendly competition!) It also has a wonderful name.

Bad Monkey Microbewery 坏猴子酿酒厂
Add: 59 Renmin Lu, Dali, Yunnan
地址:云南省大理市人民路59号
Tel: 0872 2675460

In Hong Kong, the Typhoon Brewery has a great interpretation of British style ale. It’s Hong Kong’s newest microbrewery (and so far the only brewery making their own real ale) and they specialize in hand-crafted cask-conditioned ales – just the thing to wash away the stresses of big city life. It’s already available to buy at The Globe and The Pawn bars in Central.

Typhoon Brewery 台风酿酒厂
Add: Typhoon Brewery, Shop A, Sea View Building, Mui Wo, Hong Kong
email: info@typhoonbrewery.com.hk
Website: http://www.typhoonbrewery.com.hk/

The Nanjing based Oktoberfest Brewery reproduces decent German style lagers. They also hold a mini Oktoberfest beer festival each year, which draws crowds from all over China, and even overseas.

Nanjing Oktoberfest Brewery Co. Ltd 南京欧菲生物技术有限公司                   
Add: 3 Xinke Yilu, Nanjing
地址:南京国家高新技术开发区新科一路3号
Tel: 025 5875 5231

Shanghai's Boxing Cat Brewery has a wide selection of beers including some great IPAs. It was founded in 2008 by some passionate Americans and has since moved to a more central position in the city. The premises offer excellent food as well as craft beers with an emphasis on Southern American influences (they themselves state that they were inspired by the cultural diversity found along the Interstate 10 highway that runs west to east in the southern states of America).

Boxing Cat Brewery
Add: Sinan Mansions, Unit 26A, 519-521 Fu Xing Road Central, Shanghai
地址:上海市复兴中路519-521,26A思南公馆
Opening times: Mon-Fri, 17:00-02:00; Sat/Sun, 10:00-02:00
Tel: 021 6426 0360
Website: http://www.boxingcatbrewery.com/en/about.html

The eccentric Great Leap Brewery in Beijing is a small craft brewery with a lot of uncommon beers using local ingredients. It was set up by Carl Setzer, an American with German ancestry (his grandfather used to work in a brewery in Frankfurt) so he knows what he’s doing. The brewery is set in an old hutong, so it looks a bit run-down, but Setzer assures us this is to keep the focus on the beer!

Add: 6 Doujiao Hutong, Dongcheng District, Beijing
地址:北京市东城区豆角胡同6号
Tel: 135 5223 7655
Opening times: Thurs-Sat, 15:00-00:00
Email: csetzer@greatleapbrewing.com

The fact is, craft brews are out there and it can be a lot of fun seeking them out. Next time you're traveling around China explore the area for a craft beer. Taking a craft beer adventure is not only supportive of the small local brewers but is also has its own cool, refreshing rewards. 

John Herrington is the brewer at Strong Ale Works, a craft brewery in Qingdao. You can find Strong Ale Works bottle conditioned ales in bars around Qingdao. For more info go to:http://www.wix.com/strongaleworks/qd
 

Related links
Chinese Alcohol Broken Down: The Facts You Never Knew
Grape Wine’s History and Rise in the Middle Kingdom
Toasting at the Dinner Table: 18 Do’s and Don’ts

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Keywords: craft beers in China Chinese microbreweries real ale in China alternatives to lager in China

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