Like other representatives of foreign governments in Beijing, Chi Enxiang works long hours and sometimes misses home. But her work isn’t so much about meeting with ambassadors at embassy dinner parties, as it is about carrying dishes of steaming meat, wiping down plates and collecting empty beer bottles. Chi Enxiang is one of hundreds of workers employed as restaurant staff in Beijing by the North Korean government.

There are at lest eight North Korean Restaurants in Beijing, mostly centered around the embassy district. All of these outposts are operated as businesses by the North Korean government, which uses the restaurants as a way to generate income for the state, especially much needed reserves of foreign currency.

The outside of Pyongyang Guan

At the Pyongyang Guan, the walls are dominated by heroic looking landscape paintings. A TV set in one corner pumps out a constant stream of karaoke videos—some produced in China and some apparently from North Korea. One video, showing a day out at a theme park, prompted waitress Chi to remark that “the best roller coasters in North Korea are in Pyongyang, and they’re all free to ride.”

The Pyongyang Guan’s menu will be familiar to anyone who’s eaten South Korean cusine, with cold noodles and bibimbap all featuring, along with grain based dishes such as hand-ground porridge. Pricy seafood is also available. The food is highly authentic—the North Korean football team were photographed leaving one of the government restaurants in Beijing during a stopover on their way back from the 2010 World Cup in South Africa.

Unlike some self-described ethnic restaurants in Beijing, Beijing’s North Korean eateries don't have any local hires: all the waitresses come from North Korea. “I had two years of training just for this job,” Chi said. At all the restaurants, waitresses wear traditional dresses and have a constant look of benevolence on their faces. “I’ll be here for two years, before I go back to Pyongyang,” Chi said.

Beijing’s North Korean restaurants vary in their quality and expense. The Pyongyang Guan is the city’s cheapest, and Beijing’s top-of-the-range North Korean eatery is the The Silver Bank Pyongyang Restaurant, which recently moved to a new home in Beijing’s Central Business District. At the Silver Bank, private dining rooms can be booked for 600 RMB. "We're going for a more high-class experience," the restaurant's manager told local media. Meals at most other North Korean restaurants will set you back at least 100 RMB per head.

Nearly all of the restaurants offer song and dance performances. The Pyongyang Guan offers a nightly performance, which includes a traditional Jangguchum drum dance, performed by one of the waitresses. Following karaoke in Korean and Mandarin, the performance culminates in a band performance, featuring the restaurant’s waitresses on drums, bass, keyboard and electric accordion. At other restaurants such as the Silver Bank, more personal performances are offered to those who book private rooms.

Since most Chinese visitors have had few chances to meet North Koreans, the wait staff are used to some cultural faux-pas. Guests are advised not to point at the lapel badges worn by the waitresses featuring the image of leader Kim-Jong il. “You should use your whole hand to point,” a friendly waitress said.

Beijing’s top North Korean restaurants:

1) The Silver Bank 银畔馆朝鲜料理View In Map
One of Beijing’s more luxurious North Korean options, but performances only on offer if you book a private room.

Add: 4F Zhongfu mansion, 99 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District, Beijing (North East of Guomao Bridge)
地址：北京市朝阳区建国路99号中服大厦4楼(国贸桥东北)
Tel: 010 6581 8603
Price: 200 RMB per person.

2) Haedanghwa (平壤海棠花)View In Map
One of Beijing’s oldest North Korean restaurants, still a favourite of visiting diplomats from the hermit kingdom.

Add: 2F, Kuntai Mansions, Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District, Beijing
地址：北京市朝阳区朝阳门外大街12号昆泰商场2楼
Tel: 010 8561 2925
Price: 150 RMB per person

3) Pyongyang Guan (平壤馆)View In Map
The cheapest option for North Korean food in Beijing, free performances every night, with virtuosic accordion solos.

Add: 1F, Huakang Bingguan, 78 Maizidian Jie, Chaoyang District, Beijing
地址：北京市朝阳区麦子店街78号华康宾馆1-2楼(近朝阳公园)
Tel: 010 6503 5732
Price: 50 RMB per person

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Keywords: North Korean restaurants Beijing The Silver Bank restaurant Beijing Pyongyang restaurant beijing North Koreans in Beijing