You Got to Roll with It: Sushi in Shanghai

You Got to Roll with It: Sushi in Shanghai
By Susie Gordon , eChinacities.com

Sushi is one of those things that you either love or hate. Some people balk at the thought of ingesting raw fish, while others delight in the pleasures of chilled fresh salmon. If you fall into the latter category, the chances are that you’ll be seeking out some maki rolls in Shanghai. As with most types of cuisine, our city has plenty to choose from. Prices range from very reasonable to staggeringly expensive, so here’s a rundown of the best of the bunch, covering all wallet sizes.

At the top end of the spectrum (unless you’re hunting down hidden Japanese venues that ship their fish in by suitcase) is Haiku by Hatsune. This French Concession sushi joint is typically beautiful for its location. Tables are laid out over two levels, looking over a garden, and it tends to get busy, so reservations are recommended (call 6445 0021 to bag a table). Haiku’s sushi is top quality, with all the standards represented, as well as some unusual creations. Hatsune also has a branch over in Lujiazui called Sushi, Inc. Expat haunt Julu Lu is served by Shintori. A tranquil path lined with bamboo leads to a huge eating space, with a menu packed with raw fish favourites and an extensive wine list. More exclusivity is to be found at Oyama Sushi Bar. There are only 14 seats, so this is another reservation-only affair (call 5404 7705). They import their fish from Nagasaki and Tokyo, and the menu changes along with the seasons.

Then you have the Shanghai phenomenon known as the ‘all-you-can-eat’ restaurant. Not the most elegant of names (it rather invokes images of pigs at a trough) but if you’re a sushi lover, and find that regular portions just don’t cut the mustard/wasabi, the ‘all-you-can-eat’ Japanese restaurant will seem like nirvana. There are many of these places dotted around the city, but the ones we’d recommend are Shirokiya and Shoka. Shirokiya is at 30 Donghu Lu (near Xinle Lu), a street teeming with teppanyaki joints and home-style Shanghai restaurants and hotels. Shirokiya consists of a black wood-panelled shop front leading up marble stairs into a warren of sliding screen doors. Once ensconced, you get to pick anything you want, and as much as you want, from their menu. For ¥168 (¥158 if you book ahead) you can gorge on sushi, sashimi, tempura, udon, soba, and drink as much sake, beer or spirits as you like. Not bad when you consider that many single dishes of sushi cost up to 100 RMB in regular Japanese eateries. The quality of Shirokiya’s stuff is pretty decent. The fish is always fresh and the portions are big. Also on the ‘all-you-can-eat’ hotlist is Shoka which is fancier than a lot of its rivals. A cool feature is the sake cocktail menu, and Shoka also has the advantage of being available through delivery service Sherpa.

You don’t necessarily have to go to a restaurant for your sushi fix. Shop-bought stuff isn’t usually as good or as fresh as the sushi and sashimi you’ll find in restaurants, but it’s good for a snack on the go. There are lots of takeaway stalls dotted around town. The ones I go back to time and time again are in Hongkou Football Stadium metro station, and the corner of Yuyuan Lu and Jiaozhou Lu near Jing’an. If you don’t like your nigiri individually wrapped, you can buy trays in the imported goods supermarket in Jing’an Temple metro station, or Cloud Nine shopping mall near Zhongshan Park. An old Shanghai favourite was Yogafish at the corner of Changle Lu and Wulumuqi Lu, well known for its takeaway sets of California-style rolls. Unfortunately, Yogafish closed earlier this year, but rumour has it that a new branch will soon be opening in Pudong. Fingers crossed.

Venue Listing:
Haiku by Hatsune隐泉之语
View In Map
Add: 28-Yi Taojiang Lu, Xuhui District, Shanghai
上海徐汇区桃江路28号-乙(近衡山路) 
Tel: 021 6445 0021
Hours: 11.30 -14:00, 17.30-23:-- Mon-Fri; 11.30-14:00, 17.30-23:00 Sat-Sun

Sushi, Inc. 活泉之语View In Map
Add: 2F, Citigroup Tower, 3 Huayuanshiqiao Lu, near Fucheng Lu, Shanghai
上海浦东新区花园石桥路33号花旗大厦2楼(近富城路)
Tel: 021 5877 6551

Shintori新都里无二View In Map
Add: 803 Julu Lu, near Fumin Lu, Shanghai
上海静安区巨鹿路803号(近富民路)
Tel: 021 5404 5252
Hours: 11:30 -14:00, 17:30 - 23:00 Sat&Sun; 17:30 -23:00 Mon to Fri

Oyama Sushi Bar大山鮨View In Map
Add: 2F, 20 Donghu Lu, near Huaihai Zhong Lu, Shanghai
上海徐汇区东湖路20号邸雅居2楼(近淮海中路)
Tel: 021 5404 7705

Shirokiya 白木屋居酒屋View In Map
Add: 30 Donghu Lu (near Xinle Lu), Shanghai
上海徐汇区东湖路30号甲(近淮海中路) 
Tel: 021 5403 9928

Shoka生花日本料理View In Map
Add: 98 Yanping Lu, near Xinzha Lu, Jing’an District, Shanghai
上海静安区延平路98号C幢(近新闸路)
Tel: 021 5175 9819, 5175 9817

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