If you’ve ever emerged from a restaurant with tears in your eyes, mouth numbed by chilli, and belly pleasantly fiery, the chances are you’ll have been feasting on Hunan food. Xiang cai (湘菜) hasn’t been as widely exported as some of the other ‘Eight Great Traditions’ (which are Anhui, Cantonese, Fujian, Jiangsu, Shandong, Sichuan, and Zhejiang) so isn’t well known outside of China. However, if you’re lucky enough to live in a big city like Shanghai, you can find excellent Hunan food all across the city.

Imagine a typical Hunan spread and you’ll probably picture fish heads bubbling in stew, vibrant red chillies adorning every dish, and preserved meats. The mainstay of xiang cai is the rather belligerent Hunan chilli – a stronger variant than is found in other provinces. In Hunan cooking it is used both raw and dried. Shallots and garlic are also staples. It has certain similarities with Sichuan fare, but Hunan dishes are simpler in flavour, and use more smoked and cured products. Some of the best known Hunan dishes are Dongan chicken, Mao’s braised pork, Changsha vermicelli, steamed fish heads in chilli sauce, bang bang chicken, stewed bullfrog, and frog legs.

So where are the best places to go for Hunan food in Shanghai? Luckily, there is no shortage of xiang cai joints at varying price levels. For a hearty, uncomplicated, traditional meal, seek out local joints; just look for the characters湘菜 and you’ll know that chilli overload lies within. These small neighbourhood restaurants, with their stark, well-used furniture and cheap dishes, are often the best places to taste Hunan delicacies. However, if it’s the full restaurant experience you’re after, try one of these:

Di Shui Dong 滴水洞View In Map
Di Shui Dong is loved by locals as well as expats. Their Maoming Nan Lu branch is always packed, often with queues snaking down the street outside. The other two branches are less busy. The food is reasonably priced, and delivers exactly what you’d expect. Try their pitchers of fresh juice to alleviate the spice burn.

2F, 56 Maoming Nanlu, near Changle Lu, Luwan District, Shanghai  上海市卢湾区茂名南路56号2楼
5 Dongping Lu, near Hengshan Lu, Xuhui District, Shanghai  上海市徐汇区东平路5号
630 Xianxia Lu, near Shuicheng Lu , Changning District, Shanghai  上海市长宁区仙霞路630号

Guyi 古意View In Map
This is another popular one. Always full, and attracting a wide clientele, this is a great place to get your smoked pork and dried long green beans (gān dòu ji?o zhēng là ròu -干豆角蒸腊肉).

89 Fumin Lu, near Julu Lu, Jing’an District, Shanghai  上海市静安区富民路89号

South Memory望湘园View In Map

This multi-branch giant is famous for its no-holds-barred attitude to chilli; if you want it hot, this is where to come. The décor across the board is a pleasant mix of modern and traditional Chinese.

118 Weifang Lu, near Laoshan Dong Lu  上海市浦东新区潍坊路118号
6/F Hong Yi International Plaza, 299 Nanjing Dong Lu, near Henan Zhong Lu  上海市黄浦区南京东路299号宏伊国际广场6楼
4/F, Room 9,Daning International Commercial Plaza, 1978 Gonghexin Lu, near Daning Lu  上海市闸北区共和新路1978号大宁国际商业广场9座4楼
5/F Cloud Nine Shopping Mall, 1018 Changning Lu, near Kaixuan Lu  上海市长宁区长宁路1018号龙之梦购物中心蓝中庭5楼 

Xi Xiang Ji 西厢记View In Map
Another spicy one, Xi Xiang Ji is renowned for its hot pots, especially the chilli fish and the smoked pork. Nice low-key atmosphere in both the Xuhui and Zhongshan branches.

407 Zhaojiabang Lu, near Damuqiao Lu  上海市徐汇区肇嘉浜路407号
3612 Zhongshan Bei Lu  上海市普陀区中山北路3612号

Xiang Xiang Yuan 湘湘源 View In Map
If you want to sample the flavour of Hunan food without the spiciness, Xiang Xiang Yuan will suit you. However, if you like your xiang cai like it should be (i.e. jam packed with bowel-numbing spice) give this one a miss.

1 Shaanxi Nan Lu, near Yan'an Zhong Lu  上海市陕西南路1号

Qiao Xiang Ge俏湘阁View In Map
Another Xuhui favourite, this is Hunan food given the upscale treatment. The choice is wide, and everything is presented with a certain finesse that you’d expect when the prices are high. They do a mean fish head hotpot, and their stir fries are good too.

3/F, 93 Tianyaoqiao Lu, near Zhaojiabang Lu 上海市徐汇区天钥桥路93号

Tang DynastyView In Map
Over in Pudong, the chilli fest continues. Tang is at the top end of the scale, situated in the Lianyang expat community, where folk are willing to pay big bucks for their bang bang chicken.

No.2 Thumb Plaza, Lane 199 Fangdian Lu, near Dingxiang Lu  上海市芳甸路199弄大拇指广场2号

 

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