Rough Guide to Lhasa Travel

Rough Guide to Lhasa Travel

Situated in the valley of the Kyichu (or Lhasa) River, Lhasa is the capital city of Tibet Autonomous Region and has long been the center of politics, economy, culture and religion in Tibet. For centuries, the city has held a unique place in the imagination of people around the world. This is partly because of its remoteness: it is one of the highest cities on earth at 3,650 meters (11,975 feet), and it is surrounded by some of the most challenging terrain imaginable.

But the real key to the allure of Lhasa is its ancient artistic and cultural legacy and its aura of spirituality. The name of the city literally means "holy land", and the magnificent Potala Palace is a symbol of the political and spiritual power of the Buddhist religion in this region. Tibetan religious teachers are known as "Lamas", and Tibetan Buddhism (a fusion of Buddhism and the traditional Tibetan folk religion known as "Bon") was once called "Lamaism", which reflects the centrality of spiritual leaders to the religion of Tibet. Tibetan and solar calendars govern much of religious and customary life in Tibet, and funerals and weddings are arranged according to traditional Tibetan customs.

The Jokhang Temple is one of the most sacred places in the Buddhist world, and pilgrims from all over the vast Tibetan plateau journey to Lhasa to see it. Some of them make the pilgrimage on foot, stopping every three steps to prostrate themselves in homage to the deities. To see acts of reverence of this kind is to gain some understanding of the importance that Lhasa holds in the heart of the Tibetan people.

The history of the city dates back to the 7th century AD, when King Songtsen Gampo unified Tibet and established Lhasa as its capital, building the first palace on the site of the Potala, and establishing the Jokhang and Ramoche Temples. From the 11th century Lhasa became a center of Buddhist learning. The Fifth Dalai Lama (1617-1682) began the construction of the present Potala Palace in 1645, and in 1755 the Seventh Dalai Lama (1708-1757) built the Norbulinka Palace - the summer residence of the Dalai Lamas. The layout of the old city of Lhasa dates from this time, with the Potala Palace as its center, and flanked on the east by Barkhor Street and on the west by the Norbulingka Palace. Today, the old part of Lhasa, with its more traditional Tibetan character, is located in the east of the city, centering on the area around the Jokhang and the Barkhor. It is there that public forms of worship, such as the kora (the clockwise circuit of holy places) may be seen. The western end of Lhasa is more characteristic of cities in the east of China, with a busy commercial life and modern architecture.

The city's location on a high plateau produces spectacular vistas of dark blue sky, snowcapped mountains and floating clouds. Surprisingly, despite the altitude (see Travel Tips), Lhasa enjoys a relatively mild climate. The average winter temperature is 0 degrees C (32 degrees F), and the summer average is 15 degrees C (59 degrees F). Apart from these natural attractions, Lhasa is a treasure trove of historical and scenic places, including monasteries, gardens, temples and museums. Some of the greatest attractions are the Potala Palace, the Jokhang Temple, Barkhor Street, Drepung Monastery, Sera Monastery and Ganden Monastery.

Twenty flights per week connect Lhasa to Chengdu, and there are also air links to Beijing and seven other Chinese cities and to Kathmandu in Nepal. The Qinghai-Tibet Railway, the highest railroad in the world, began operations in 2006, forming Tibet's first rail link to the rest of China, and allowing direct train journeys from Beijing and Shanghai to Lhasa. With its magnificent natural scenery, the rail journey will draw more and more people to Tibet in years to come.

On arriving in Lhasa, most people head straight for the Barkhor district, as it offers affordable and convenient accommodation and a good variety of food, including Chinese, Tibetan, Western and Nepali.

Food and drink in Tibet reflect the region's climate, local products, religion and folk customs. The Tibetan diet is rich in beef (usually yak meat) and mutton, and the yak is also important as a source of milk and butter. For centuries, barley has been a vital staple on the Tibetan plateau, and one of the most important components of a traditional meal is tsampa – a kneaded mixture of roasted barley meal, yak butter and tea. Popular Tibetan dishes include momo (dumplings filled with vegetables and meat) and thukpa (noodles with meat). Dried yak and lamb cutlets are also typical specialties. Butter tea is the most common drink in Tibet, and is made from boiled tea mixed vigorously with butter and salt: it is a traditional offering to all guests, as well as a staple drink. Barley beer (which westerners may find a little sour at first) is a popular drink at all kinds of happy occasions. There are some dietary restrictions: Tibetans avoid donkey and dog meat, and devout Tibetan Buddhists do not eat fish.

In recent years greater variety has been introduced into the local diet: barley is now supplemented by rice, and vegetables like green peppers, potatoes, radishes, peas and beans are freely available. Visitors will find that the food available in Lhasa is similar to that found in other parts of China, especially Sichuan, and the standard of restaurants means that it is possible to eat in a different place every night and have an enjoyable meal in each. The most popular restaurant district is in the old quarter near the Barkhor area.

With the development of tourism and the local economy, Lhasa by night is a very different city today than it was even ten years ago. There is a wide range of entertainment options, with new bars and clubs and other nightlife venues opening all the time. More traditional entertainment is still very much alive: there's plenty of song and dance at Lhasa's theaters, langma opera being a particular favorite.

Lhasa has many special local products, which makes shopping a pleasure. These include Tibetan thanka (religious art on fabric), silver ornaments, traditional costumes, handicrafts and Tibetan medicines. Popular purchases are carpets, ornamental daggers and swords, jewelry, traditional aprons and hats. Look for them in the Barkhor area in the old part of the city.

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