Vivid, spicy Chengdu, home of the panda, rated an impressive third on the China Expat Association's "10 Most Livable Cities in China"2006 review. With Chengdu's foothill location, lush greenery, relatively comfortable weather and wide range of gourmet food, the ranking is well deserved.
Chengdu is situated at the very lowest foothills of the Tibetan Plateau, so it enjoys a slight and comfortable elevation that keeps it surrounded with cooling mists and hilly foliage. Chengdu summers stimulate the sweat glands with steamy, humid weather that reaches maximum temperatures of 31C (88F) with balmy nights perfect for late strolls. Winters are mild with lows of 9C (48F). Springs and autumns are temperate, breezy and beautiful. But it is perhaps Chengdu's scenery that makes it so appealing. The towering tangles of peaceful bamboo, the flutter of light leaves, the thin pines, all of these things paint a tranquil picture that the world has come to think of as the quintessential "Chinese" image.
But Chengdu is one of the fastest-growing and most prosperous cities in southwest China. Already, some of the city's most charming neighborhoods have gone forever, and the town center is a glitzy enclave of skyscrapers and high-end malls. Pollution, particularly air pollution, is less of a problem than in cities like Beijing and Shanghai, but it does exist, and the frequent hazy mornings are not always natural occurrences. The city government is scrambling to bring amenities up to speed, with an ambitious public transport plan in the works and a new subway system tunneling towards a 2010 start date.
Meanwhile, the city is still bicycle-friendly (air quality permitting), and nearly all large thoroughfares feature a commodious bike lane on either side of the road. There are plenty of rewards for the two-wheeled tourist: there are still streetscapes of old Chengdu to be found, and residents who take the time to get half-lost can find unforgettable moments of tree-shaded calm.
The local dialect is Sichuanese, which may take a little getting used to for anyone who has only studied and understands standard Mandarin, but integration should not take more than two weeks or thereabouts. Standard Mandarin (Putonghua) is understood by locals.
Chengdu's dining and nightlife scene is another one of the city's big draws. Dining options are numerous compared to similarly-populated cities. As far as local food goes, delicious, fiery Sichuan hotpot and savory gongbao jiding (Kung Pao Chicken) can be found on nearly every street corner in the city. Other Chinese cuisines out of Shanghai, Guangzhou, Tibet and Hunan are widely available. Vegetarians will feel at home in such Chengdu eateries as Wenshuyuan Temple Vegetarian Restaurant, but it is Chengdu's international selection of American, Indian, Thai, Italian, Mexican, French and Japanese food that sets it apart from its peers. Nightlife is not quite so varied. The expatriate population can usually be found at either Carol's by the River or Shamrock Pub. The Little Bar is a great venue to see live Chinese rock bands and modern/experimental musical acts. The cost of housing varies widely, but those looking to rent an average Chinese place can find a livable two-bedroom apartment for around RMB2,000/month, a price which is only slightly less expensive than Beijing. Most restaurants, nightlife and office buildings are located south of Tianfu Square, and apartment seekers should factor this into their search.
Amenities from home are not impossible to get in Chengdu considering the multiple four and five star hotel chains and international markets. While you won't find too much in the way of name-brand clothing or shoes, supermarkets like Sabrina's Country Store provide such luxuries as breakfast cereals, cheeses, familiar canned goods, western candy and more. WalMart and Carrefour branches have also opened up in Chengdu.
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